Sunday, November 24, 2013

Hurricane Nut Installation

I see more questions on the forums I frequent about problems with hurricanes and tee nuts than ever.   Here's the directions I wrote for installing them in some subwoofer kits I designed that are now discontinued.  These pics show hurricanes, tee nuts are the same.  I don't sell nor use the tee nut style because they just don't work as well in Baltic Birch.  In regular plywood they're probably superior.  Regular plywood sucks for speaker cabs though, so there you go.  These were written for use with my speaker mount package.  Personally I have gone completely to recex screws for speaker mounting.  Easy, fast, incredibly strong.  I do still occasionally use hurricanes, primarily for strap handles. 

Set the woofer in the baffle, mark the mounting holes.  You may need to cut some excess gasket away from the holes in the frame to reach the baffle to mark it. A scratch awl or thin screwdriver works well to mark the baffle.  Remove the driver.  Drill ¼ holes through each mark, being careful not to let the bit walk away from the mark.  Drilling an 1/8 or smaller pilot is a good precaution.  Get the hurricane nuts, socket head cap screw, washers and the hex key wrench ready.

 Mix up some of the 5 minute epoxy.  Put the washer on the bolt, drop it through a hole from the front side of the baffle.  Start the hurricane nut on the bolt from inside. 

Apply a little epoxy to the barrel ONLY of the hurricane nut.  I use an acid brush. They're about quarter at the hardware store.   DO NOT GET EPOXY ON THE BOLT THREADS! 

Holding the hurricane nut, tighten the bolt with the wrench just until the flat part of the hurricane is tight against the baffle.  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, just pull it snugly.  You can do this with a screwgun, if you set the clutch and have a bit.  On my makita 14 is just about right. 

Remove the bolt.  Repeat for all 8 holes, remixing epoxy as needed. .   After the glue dries, and before installing the driver, spin a bolt through each nut to make sure the threads are clean.  If not, you will need to get a 10-32 tap to run through the nut, which is not a bad idea anyway.  I always run a tap through afterwards. 

This is the first in a series of tips and tricks I'm going to run. They'll be available as downloadable pdfs on my site pretty soon.  I hope to get some videos up too of various ways to do stuff.  

Happy Thanksgiving!

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